Kurokawa Onsen: Ryokan Iyashi no Sato Kiyashiki

Kurokawa onsen lifestyle

Iyashi no Sato Kiyashiki (いやしの里　樹やしき) came highly recommended via websites like Secret Japan, not only for the beauty of the setting, but also because this particular ryokan provides excellent service and is considered to have some of the best meals in Kurokawa. After staying here, I have a new understanding of the term "hospitality" and highly recommend booking a night or two to enjoy the cool, crisp mountain air, wonderfully relaxing baths, and the incredible, beautifully presented breakfasts and dinners.

Get ready for Kiyashi Inn!

We had booked the ryokan well in advance, which was easy enough since upon calling for a reservation, one of the staff spoke fluent English. Since this was our "treat," we opted for a first night with the regular meal plan, and on the second night we upgraded to the more decadent dinner and breakfast. Payment is due at the end of the stay, and while I believe that they take credit cards at this particular ryokan, you may want to make sure you have cash on hand for payment if staying at other places, because many of these establishments are cash only. After the reservation was made, and email addresses exchanged, Kiyashiki was diligent in sending confirmations via email, requesting arrival times, and information on whether we were traveling by car or bus. When we had all of our information and travel plans set, they informed us that they would pick us up at the bus stop to bring to the ryokan.

The inn's pet turtle, very friendly

As stated in the last post, travel to Kurokawa is not the easiest, but completely doable. After hours on the train and Nishitetsu bus, we arrived only a few minutes late to the bus stop, where a car from Kiyashiki was waiting to take us directly to our inn. It was only about a three minute drive up a hill to the ryokan, but staying a touch away from town provided a beautiful view, with a winding road, and scenery directly facing that lush mountainside. When the car arrived, a handful of staff were standing outside of the inn built into the hillside, welcoming us.

Lounge area, overlooking
the hillside

We were then seated in the lounge, which has a picture window so gorgeous that from the photos on the website I had thought it was simply a painting. Once seated, a staff member brought out two cups of delicious green tea, and a manager had us fill out a guest card and pick out the colors of the yukata that are provided to all guests at the inn. 

Weaving through hallways

With our delicious tea consumed, a wonderful staff member, who was eager to practice his English, guided us through the little rooms and outdoor walkways, changing slippers from outdoor to indoor versions as appropriate, soon arriving at a room in the "main palace." Sweet smelling, earthy tatami mats, a low table, and a long window opening to the mountainside rounded out our gorgeous traditional Japanese room. 

Strolling around the
inn wearing traditional
yukata

He then demonstrated, upon our request, how to wear the yukata, and asked what time we would like dinner, and where it would be served on that night (there is more than one dining room). He informed us that we were welcome to dress in our yukata and explore the inn, as well as try out the relaxing baths. Also, since the inn was a bit spread out, he gave us a very helpful English map of the grounds.

Entrance to our room

On the second night, to our sheer delight, the manager met us after breakfast and mentioned that the inn had had a cancellation, and that if we wanted to, we could move to an upgraded room, this one with its own outdoor private bath. I couldn't believe it. Though the first room was serene and lovely, the second was larger, and more isolated. It was located in a smaller building outside of the main palace. 

Private bath on the second night

The main room was similar to that of the first, but the space expanded into a kitchen area, and then to the private outdoor stone bath with shower. That bath was amazing. Minerally and smelling slightly of sulfur, soaking for all but a few moments forces ones skin into a state of ten years younger. Just picture: private, circular bath, outdoors, surrounded by lush bamboo and local greenery. Steaming hot spring water, and a cool breeze coming off the hills. When you're finished with your bath, you can dress in the loose fitting yukata and relax on the tatami. 
I'm failing at my explanation of how wonderful this place is. Words are not sufficient. Please stay here for the relaxing atmosphere, and second to none environment and gracious service. But if that isn't enough... stay for the food...
Food post to follow... stay tuned...